Overview
The longer version of these instructions with a discussion of multiple methods is here, this a description of our favorite method and one we use to root hundreds of cutting successfully.
Cutting Preparation
Prior to starting rooting cuttings require some preparation.
Trim the bottom of your cutting to within about a quarter inch of a node. A node is where the leaves/figs grow from and is the only section of the cutting with a solid core. Most likely the cutting will rot back to the node, so cutting close to the node discourages rot from gaining a foothold and killing the cutting. In the picture note that how the section where the node is has solid wood through the cutting, whereas the rest of the cutting is a soft white material.
To determine what the bottom and top of the cutting is look at a node. The small convex nub is a bud and is on top of the leaf scar (where the leaf was attached). Sometimes the buds are very hard to see so you can also remember that you want the leaf scar ‘smiling’ at you when it is right side up. That is to say the bottom portion of the leaf scar at each node has a curve like a smile.
Wrap the cutting in Parafilm to about 1″ below where the soil line will be to prevent the cutting from drying out
Cuttings can also be optionally treated with rooting hormone. We use Dip N’ Grow at 10X concentration. Each cutting is dipped in Dip N’ Grow for at least 10 seconds.
Stick the cutting in your potting mix. Potting mix should be light and loose and only slightly damp.
It frequently takes 2-3 weeks to see growth from a cutting. Don’t water until you get leaf growth and the pot feels very light. Too much water is much more likely than too little water at this point. Once you get strong leaf growth you will need to water some to keep the new plant hydrated, but water sparingly till the plant has significant new growth. If you overwater the cutting may stay too wet and rot.